MySpace removed my old blogs so I am moving them here. This was the beginning of my write-up on my first trip to Africa in 2004. Here's part one; two to follow soon, and then maybe I'll somehow attempt to finish it... (I never did, and it's been nearly ten years!)
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Sunday, 18 July: Nairobi 
Two
 days of air travel (Note to self: never do two overnight flights in a 
row again) and endless waiting but I'm finally in Africa. For those of 
you who aren't aware, my brother, Kurt, lived in Kenya for a year in the
 mid 80s (attending the University of Nairobi) and Tanzania for two 
years in the late 80s (in the Peace Corps and working in Jane Goodall's 
headquarters), then in the 90s he started leading wildlife safaris in 
East Africa every year or two. I housesat for him in the desert (because
 I couldn't afford to go) during the previous two in '99 and '00, and 
then the following year, slaving away at (No)Futurekids, I finally saved
 enough money to go, but for various reasons "Baobob V" was postponed 
until this year. 
With twenty in all, this is Kurt's largest 
group ever, and always on the lookout for new recruits, he has persuaded
 Helen, our 84-year-old "fake relative" (she's a friend of the family, 
she grew up next door to my mother with no living relatives left on the 
planet) to be my "roommate", warning me with a slight smirk that Helen's
 memory ain't what it used to be. (The thing is, it never was what it 
used to be; she's one of those people who, although kind-hearted and 
well-meaning, constantly asks you loads of questions yet dizzily, never 
pays attention to the answers.) I am happy not to pay a single 
supplement and decide not to worry. 
Helen flew on her own from 
Phoenix and joins our flight from London to Nairobi. As we get off this 
second overnight flight, Helen requests a wheelchair as she is feeling 
rough. This turns out to be a plus for Candice (my brother's girlfriend)
 and me: we push the chair and get to breeze through Immigration with no
 waiting. 
It's early in the morning and here we are at our 
luxury hotel (I'm not really expecting this and I'm not accustomed to 
places that give you bathrobes and slippers) on a hill above the city, 
the Nairobi Serena. Helen dons the dressing gown and crashes as soon as 
we're shown into the room and I struggle to stay awake. After channel 
surfing (the only local television channel seems to be an East African 
MTV with a lot of tedious booty-shakin going on, and there seems to be a
 very wide range of trashy American "Lifetime television for women" 
biopics (inside joke to those who know him: no Ramsay sightings 
unfortunately) available at all hours) and sitting in the Jacuzzi for a 
while (it's way too cold to go swimming), I end up guzzling coffee at 
the poolside bar, mildly pestered by a sunburnt builder from Reading 
(his hols: a two-day "Big 5" type safari followed by a fortnight on the 
beach at Mombasa) who accuses me of being unfriendly because I'm trying 
to read my book. (He shuts up when I tell him I'm hoping to see some 
bats, probably thinks I'm some kind of goth freak.) 
Finally it's
 2 PM and five of us are taken to the Nairobi National Museum. It's 
adjacent to Nairobi Snake Park! We must go in. I believe we're the only 
tourists in there. Relieved to see that there are large enclosures in 
this vivarium/aquarium, though it could do with more frequent cleaning -
 we see some quite enormous boa turds. 
The museum is wonderful 
and although it's much bigger, it brings to mind the sorely missed (at 
least by me) Leeds City Museum (which also had a very small 
vivarium/aquarium, wonder what happened to those mud puppies!), as well 
as the very Victorian Dublin Natural History Museum. I'm drawn to the 
Leakey skulls (Homo Habilis!!), although the hall of dead birds was very
 useful for future identification, and the hall with local art was 
amazing. 
We stop off for a drink on the veranda of the Norfolk Hotel (Nairobi's oldest), where I have my first Tusker lager. 
 
Dinner
 that evening at the hotel restaurant is a four-course affair, the first
 of many. Helen has slept through it, and consequently is up all night, 
noisily pottering about. 
Monday, 19 July: Nairobi 
Helen 
finally emerges from the room for breakfast. She decides not to go on 
our first game drive however, saying she plans to spend the day sitting 
by the pool. At any rate there is more room for the five of us in our 
pop-top minivan. 
We have about a half hour wait outside the 
gates of Nairobi National Park, and are encouraged, for the first of 
many times, to visit the gift shop. I ask if I can go into the Animal 
Orphanage instead, and they arrange for us all to go in. (Note: Richard 
Leakey was once head of the orphanage, and this is where Jane Goodall 
worked when she first came to Africa.) This is not something they 
normally do so everyone is quite pleased that I suggested it, as we get 
to frolic with cheetah and lion cubs. 

The
 cheetahs are teenagers, about the size of a German Shepherd (though 
more the shape of a greyhound of course), and they purr as you scratch 
them under the chin and like to lick your face. 

 The lion cubs are much younger and play roughly just like kittens: 
climbing up your leg, grabbing your arm and sinking claws and teeth into
 it - only they're about twenty times the size of kittens with a 
corresponding twenty times larger teeth and claws. I manage to 
disentangle myself and merely receive a surface scratch but poor Sandy's
 leg is kind of a bloody mess, requiring an application of iodine.
Not as exciting, but still very cute, here's a dik dik:

Nairobi
 Park is a good introduction to African game drives as it encompasses so
 much in such a small area; beyond every corner is a different kind of 
terrain, from forest and bush to swamp and savannah. At certain points 
you can see the skyscrapers of Nairobi behind herds of giraffe. Giraffes
 are everywhere; we drive ten feet past the gates and about a dozen are 
blocking the road. 
No
 big cats or elephants yet, but we also see zebras, impalas, gazelles, 
bushbucks, elands, hartebeests, wildebeests, buffalo, vervet monkeys, 
warthogs and loads of birds. 
I have an eye to eye brief encounter with a malachite kingfisher, who flies away as soon as I notify others of his presence. 
Lunch
 is at a restaurant called the Verandah, owned by an American woman. 
It's very nice and I'm relieved that we didn't have to dine at the 
Carnivore Restaurant (with a selection of "bush meat") up the road. 
Afterward we visit the Langata Giraffe Centre. It houses three tame Rothschild's giraffes which you may feed:
 
you
 climb up a tower in order to reach the level of their mouths and 
they'll take the food, which is like rather large rabbit pellets, off 
your hand or out of your mouth (several young boys get very into this!)
A
 giraffe tongue is quite soft but not wanting to get covered in giraffe 
spittle, I mostly toss the pellets as one would toss fish to a seal. 
They're
 greedy buggers too! Way down below, some warthogs are eating the 
pellets that have fallen on the ground, but there aren't many of those. 

Apparently
 for some extortionate sum you may stay in the giraffe towers on the 
premises, and they, the giraffes that is, will stick their heads in and 
wake you up in the morning. I'm sure if they were given free rein they'd
 be happy to wake you up in the middle of the night too! 
Next we
 travel to the district of Karen and visit Karin Blixen's house and 
museum. All I remember about Out of Africa is that I wasn't impressed by
 her taste in men - going for those macho big game hunters. I guess she 
did a lot for the locals, or at least gave them work on her plantation, 
but she actually only lived in Africa for fourteen years or so. You'd 
think if you thought of somewhere as your spiritual home and had nice 
digs (as this house was, and what a view too!), 
that
 you would want to spend the rest of your days there, but no, she went 
back to dreary Denmark and never returned to Africa! Not once!! In 
Denmark she died of malnutrition. I reckon she wasn't getting enough 
fresh vegetables. But back to that fourteen years thing - I lived that 
long in Leeds! Will Meryl Streep play me someday in Out of Headingley, 
working the door at the Warehouse (turning away cranky ligging 
journalists who want us to subsidize their dates), buying cheese & 
onion pasties at Stanley's Bakery, doling out cash advances on wages to 
stage crew at the Playhouse, riding my bike across Woodhouse Moor and 
driving Bob (my old Mini) through the dales? Will the "district" of Hyde
 Park be renamed in honour of me? Only time will tell. 
Back at 
the hotel we learn that Helen called for a doctor and was later taken to
 Nairobi Hospital! I won't go into the details but it wasn't anything 
life threatening. Okay, she was just a little stopped up, if you get my 
drift. Kurt goes to fetch her and later all is well; he says she's fine 
to travel tomorrow though she seems a little cranky. Again she's up all 
night so again my slumber is disturbed.